Cosy pub
walks
A winter walk isn’t really complete without a visit to a welcoming pub. If you’re partial to a freshly pulled pint, fine wine, good food or a roaring fire, there’s nothing to beat a hospitable hostelry to round off a day’s hiking
WORDS MARK ROWE
1
THE YPRES CASTLE INN
Rye, East Sussex
ABOUT: Balancing traditional decor with local artwork, this pub has an impressive list of local real and craft ales, wine and cider. The fire welcomes everyone inside as the temperature drops. Refreshingly, they don’t take bookings, so wandering walkers needn’t fear losing out to organised parties. Refuel with a tasty bar snack or cold plate (no hot food here).
WALK IT: Camber Sands and Winchelsea beaches are close by. The former is good for meandering alongside sand dunes, while the latter links to Rye via the Royal Military Canal footpath.
THE YPRES CASTLE INN WEBSITE
2
THE GURNARD’S HEAD
Zennor, Cornwall
ABOUT: Even if your walk finishes in twilight, you can’t miss this pub, painted in gaudy double-lines yellow. Inside, everything is easy on the eye, from the comfortable chairs that soften the soul after a day traversing the adjacent coastal ups and downs to the local beer, cider and good wine list.
WALK IT: Cornwall’s wild, battered north coast is just 1km/⅔ mile away and any local walk should take in the unfettered beauty of the headlands of Zennor and Gurnard, where at low tide the waters shift and swirl with an aquamarine shimmer. St Ives is 13km/8 miles to the east along the South West Coast Path; the melancholic ruins of Geevor Tin Mine are 10km/6 miles to the west.
THE GURNARD'S HEAD WEBSITE
3
THE SUN INN
Dedham, Essex
ABOUT: Its fine wrought-iron sign overhanging the street, this classic village pub sees a good mix of villagers and hikers attracted by local beers on tap alongside a menu featuring local seafood and seasonal wild game. Comfy sofas and large tables are perfect for laying out an OS map and plotting your walk by an open fire.
WALK IT: A bankside walk along the River Stour is on the pub’s doorstep. Flatford Mill, of Constable fame, is a 3km/2-mile walk away and reached via the green and undulating Dedham Vale. The Essex Way is adjacent, too, for those seeking longer rambles.
THE SUN INN WEBSITE
4
THE FOREST ARMS
Brechfa, Carmarthenshire
ABOUT: Real ales, daily specials chalked on a blackboard, exposed beams, a roaring fire, comfy chairs and stone walls are ready to welcome the weary walker. In the Raven Bar, pay homage to Bob the raven, an orphaned corvid raised in the village and now proudly taxidermied for inspection.
WALK IT: The pub is well positioned for wonderful valley walks along the River Gorlech (best accessed from the village of Gorlech). The river crashes through the huge Brechfa Forest, its swirling currents tracked by insect-hunting dippers. Meander around the hairpins of Brechfa Forest Garden, the legacy of a 1950s tree-planting experiment, where you’ll find giant redwoods, walnut oaks and South American beeches.
THE FOREST ARMS WEBSITE
5
THE GLOBE INN
Dumfries, Dumfries and Galloway
ABOUT: Dumfries was poet Robert Burns’ final home and he described having ‘many a merry squeeze’ at The Globe Inn, his favourite ‘howff’ or haunt. Tucked down a narrow lane, there’s a bar, a snug, regional beer and fine wine to welcome you. Fancy a malt? There’s a choice of 150 for your dram.
WALK IT: Burns described Dumfries as the ‘Queen of the South’ for its prettiness and appealing setting by the River Nith. The town and surrounds offer ramblers some fine walking. A town-based Burns Trail takes in the graceful 15th-century arches of Devorgilla’s Bridge, while to the south is the wildlife-rich Nith estuary and the sandy beaches of the Solway Firth. Nithsdale draws away north, with opportunities to explore the undulating hills of the Southern Uplands, such as the Lowthers.
THE GLOBE INN WEBSITE
6
MASONS ARMS
Warkworth, Northumberland
ABOUT: Cosy bar areas welcome the winter walker and there’s a walled beer garden for sunny, milder days. Vintage decor stays the right side of twee and, along with flagstone floors, provides de-stressing surroundings to sip your real ale or glass of wine. The emphasis on local food, incorporated into pies, curries and burgers, will be welcome if you’ve worked up an appetite.
WALK IT: The pub is a fantastic base for walks up and down the River Coquet, which flows through the village, or along the dramatic Northumberland coast. Try the 10km/6-mile loop to Alnmouth and back.
MASONS ARMS WEBSITE
7
WOOLPACK INN
Boot, Eskdale, Cumbria
ABOUT: Standing in splendid isolation in Eskdale, the Woolpack Inn really looks the part of a rural walkers’ pub. Flower baskets and black-and-white decor outside lead to an interior of wooden tables, comfy sofas, exposed beams and an excellent range of regional ales and hearty food.
WALK IT: The pub is located in the appropriately named hamlet of Boot on the plains just to the west of the nuggety Hardknott Pass. The substantial remains of Hardknott Roman Fort greet you at the top of the strenuous walk up the pass, along with oblique views of the southern flanks of the Central Lakeland Fells. Alternatively, take the La’al Ratty vintage train to the coastal village of Ravenglass for a leg-stretcher along the Cumbrian coast.
WOOLPACK INN WEBSITE
8
THE STIPERSTONES INN
Stiperstones, Shropshire
ABOUT: Run by the same family for 50 years, this lovely low-key pub’s chunky stature speaks to its origins as two cottages and a village smithy. Enjoy ales and open fires in both the lounge and the public bar. Try the local pudding special of whinberry crumble, incorporating richly sweet berries from the nearby Shropshire Hills.
WALK IT: The inn is immediately to the west of the ragged, jagged Stiperstones and the contrasting smooth Long Mynd plateau, both of which offer stirring ridgeline walks with views across to central and North Wales. In winter, the lie of the land, which dips away on all sides, makes this an unforgettable location for late-afternoon sunsets.
THE STIPERSTONES INN WEBSITE
9
THE BULL'S HEAD
Craswall, Herefordshire
ABOUT: Set in the Marches that blur the boundary between England and Wales, this magnificent pub is a survivor from the days of drovers’ inns. Flagstone floors, a crackling hearth and a hole-in-the-wall bar add to the feel of walking back in history, although the real ale comes in glasses rather than flagons nowadays.
WALK IT: The pub lies in the foothills of the Black Mountains and walking opportunities include a stiff climb up the hunched contours of the Black Hill, also known as the Cat’s Back, set among hill sheep farms and offering views of the Olchon Valley. You might even stumble upon the ruins of an old Baptist chapel.
THE BULL'S HEAD WEBSITE
10
THE BUDDLE INN
Niton, Isle of Wight
ABOUT: On a sunny winter’s day, you may want to step inside only to order your drinks, as the beer garden is adorned year-round with flowers and the sea views are easy on the eye. The interior has a classic tavern feel that pays homage to this pub’s 18th-century smuggling notoriety. Seated at its wooden tables, try the island breweries on tap or a selection of island white wines.
WALK IT: The pub sits above the Isle of Wight Coastal Path, so is a good choice for an intermission en route to Ventnor (if heading anticlockwise). A circular loop from the pub drops down to St Catherine’s Lighthouse (its two towers are known as the Cow and the Calf). Otherwise, you could head inland to St Catherine’s Oratory, known locally as the Pepperpot (the moniker is obvious when you see it) for views that arc away to Hampshire and Dorset.
THE BUDDLE INN WEBSITE
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